“Camilla brooch”, 2010 private collection.
JAR, these are the initials of Joel Arthur Rosenthal. In the world of contemporary jewelry and precious jewels, these three letters have a magical, almost mythical sound. Diane from Furstenberg called him ‘the Faberge of our times’, and experts see a genius in the mysterious, reclusive jeweler. The New York Metropolitan Museum shows until March 9, 2014, over 400 of his sparkling and Glistening pieces of jewellery from over 35 years of work. JAR is the very first contemporary jewelry designer at all, the met in his venerable halls of the Museum devotes a retrospective.
Who is like Elizabeth Henryr, Gwyneth Paltrow or Madonna, Marella Agnelli, Ann Getty, Pinault Lauder and Princess Firyal of Jordan its exclusive customers may include hand-picked, company is located in best from Rothschild, Guiness, Rockefeller & co. And may be extremely lucky. Jewels auctions such as Sotheby’s, its just as rare as much sought-after jewelry unique blast the sound walls for a long time with nice regularity all existing price records. Because not everyone can get them. Money, too much money alone is not sufficient to gain access to Joel Arthur Rosenthal’s Paris shop. Some say it was to find easier recording in a venerable, English Member Club or even a hidden secret Lodge, as access to the native American jewelry atelier.
A Geheimnisumwittertes Genius
There are no photos of Joel Arthur Rosenthal, he shuns public appearances and does no advertising. The New York gala show is only his second, large exhibition. He had studied art history and philosophy at Harvard University, before the New Yorker moved to Paris and his friend and business partner, the Swiss Pierre Jeannet met – the other half of the history of the JAR. A similar relationship as that of Yves Saint Laurent to his life companion Pierre Bank in the fashion industry. Together, they operated a business for Rosenthal’s tapestry embroidery, the stylists of Herms only or Valentino appreciated. Then they opened the jewellery store JAR in 1978, after Rosenthal had briefly worked at Bulgari.
High Couture Jewels
Take just a look in its window display in a hidden passage between the Place Vendôme and the Ritz? Error display. There are no exhibits. One discovers at best a bizarrely shaped branch or a particularly attractive fruit in the window. The letters of JAR and a blank polierter door knob in the form of a Camellia as one of the favorite motifs are the only clue, to be in the right place. In the Holy of Holies of the jewelry Salon one’s access friends or customers only with an appointment on the recommendation of JAR. The uncrowned king of jewelry artists of the 20th and 21st century granted an audience, must be about yourself or the customise to deliver a personal dossier. Since Rosenthal’s pieces are always individually to cut on its future bearer or its future carrier.
Matisse of the Jewelry
A prospective buyer must face up to three years, until the appropriate personality design conceived by the Matisse of Jewelry, found the necessary gems and extremely sophisticated processing craft highest level completed. The exception jeweler reserves Moreover the right to sell a piece of jewelry if it appears but not perfectly made for the receiver after once his opinion. JAR is an absolute perfectionist, his jewels are incomparable jewel feats. Per year occur just once to the 70 unique.
Nature as Teacher
Rosenthal always experimented with new shapes, designs and themes. Especially like it is inspired by nature. Delicate butterflies, flowers such as camellias and Tulips, wild – or Peony, violet, poppy, Pansy, Lily of the Valley or Geraniums and again under his animal images in addition to the Dragonfly significant and frequently recurring topics is often in the form of large brooches. A zebra head, cut artfully from metallographic agate, wearing a Holster and feathered headdresses made of diamond. But also snow flakes, a branch filled with diamond dew drops, sea shells, a pomegranate or even an oak leaf with acorns or an orange peel can be source of inspiration for him. Rosenthal not evenly forming its Brocade and sparkling floral Marvel, but seeks to include the role of randomness in nature: even in the form of a bud, even in the form of a fully developed flower or with a descending petal. Each JAR piece of jewelry is unique and looks in its three-dimensionality so enormously plastic like a sculpture.
Sparkling Color Sensations
JAR unique selection of extraordinary stones in unique and fantastic color combinations is especially famous for his. He used bold, contrasting color compositions, relies on effective color contrasts and rare gemstones such as green garnet, pink sapphires, or Black diamonds. As a watercolor painter, he lets his pieces of jewellery in finest shades and gradations of all colors of the Rainbow spectrum shimmer. His designs are often so complicated that over 10,000 gemstones are used for some pieces.
‘Paved’ with Gems
In addition to Platinum and white gold, he has reintroduced the long proscribed use of blackened silver version and perfected. You show the color of the stones and the Fiery sparkling brilliance of the diamond sublime and make invisible the metal mount. JAR is a true magician of the Pavement technique. Pavement is the French word for “paved”. In a Pavement The are incredibly many, even tiny gems close to close as tiny paving stones set side by side. Making a beautiful glittering carpet arises from precious stones. In New York Metropolitan Museum of art there is also mysterious half-light, only the showcases are lit from the inside and bring to the precious gems to the glisten, gleam and sparkle that is fully Adorable amazement in a magical fairies Wonderland of beautiful treasures offset believed.
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